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Computers
start with Hardware..... It used to be the Tower,
Monitor, Keyboard, Mouse, Speakers and Printer but
hardware now also possibly includes a Router, high
speed Modem, USB hub, second
printer, scanner, UPS and surge
protector. We will discuss and give tips on each of
these.
Notebook or Desk
Top
Many people like the idea of a notebook (used to be called
a Laptop) computer since it is much more mobile. Apart from
price, notebooks have trade-offs (disadvantages) in performance
- these include generally smaller display, slower performance,
more awkward mouse and keyboard and limited peripherals. So
unless you need the portability or don't care about the trade-offs,
the desk top makes more sense. However, the technical issues
are generally the same, so only a desk top version is discussed
here.
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Tower
or "Computer Box"
The name comes from the vertical structure but it simply means the place where
most of the components are housed. When you buy a computer you should be aware
of the items listed below that are housed in the tower. Note that the only real
difference between a full-size and compact tower is the expansion capability.
Larger towers allow for later addition of new audio and video cards plus internal
hard drives etc. They probably also have a larger power supply to support these
items. |
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CPU -
Usually Pentium but the speed rating and use of dual core determines
overall speed. Price goes up a lot depending on this choice.
If you are a serious "gamer",
then go for the highest speed you can afford. Replacing the
Pentium with a Celeron processor is only recommended if speed
is not important (e.g. you plan to use the computer for small
document word processing and e-mail only).
Memory (RAM) - Minimum 1GB (2GB for Vista) or if you are
planning to edit Photos or Videos, then a minimum of 1GB with 2GB recommended
(or double those with Vista). Memory speed (FSB or Front Side Bus) should
be 800 MHz. You cannot specify more than 4GB unless you use Windows 64bit.
Disk Drive - Minimum 60GB - recommended is as much
as is reasonably affordable. If you are planning to store many photos,
music tracks or videos, then 160GB would be a minimum by today's standards.
Video Card - Most people will need a separate Video
card to accommodate Vista but integrated video will suit if you have
Vista basic. The card should preferably have
256MB or more of its own RAM.
Sound Card - Integrated sound will suit most people
unless you plan to listen to a lot of music or you are a serious "gamer".
In that case, a separate sound card is called for. The integrated capability
or sound card must also suit the speakers you get.
Optical Drive(s) - Minimum CD-RW so you can read CD-ROMs
and burn (write) them as well. You need this to make Music CDs and back-ups
of your data. DVD read capability is a must and DVD burn capability
is highly recommended. Although you can't copy DVD movies (other than
home made ones) and there are still compatibility issues (not every
DVD you burn will play in every DVD player), they are handy for large
backups. This is especially true if you plan to store a lot of photos,
videos or music on your computer. The best configuration for many people
is a CD/DVD player (that is, with read capability)
plus a second drive with DVD/CD-RW capability (can write or burn DVD's
& CD-ROMs). To find out if your home DVD player will play the format
(DVD+R, DVD-R etc) that your DVD burner produces, go to this
site and enter the player model number.
Floppy Disk Drive - Many new computers do not have
a floppy drive but if you want to transfer data from old floppies either
that you have or you would get from someone else, then a floppy drive
is worth having. The alternative to a floppy drive is a card reader
with a memory card or a memory key. The advantage is that
memory cards can have much higher capacity (128MB - 1GB) yet are much
smaller than floppies. |
Monitor
The traditional monitor was a CRT but all new systems
now come with flat screen LCD displays (right). They
are smaller (in depth and footprint), are "cool" and
give a sharp picture if set up correctly and the
prices keep coming down. LCD screens come with
a "Native Resolution" and
for maximum sharpness, the display should be set
to this (more below).
As the middle of 2007, the following is a best estimate
of display sizes in use:
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| Display |
Usage |
Comments |
| 640 x 480 |
<1% |
Virtually antiques |
| 800 x 600 |
12% |
Usually 17” |
| 1024 x 768 |
70% |
Usually 19” but also 17” and many
laptops |
| 1280 x 1024/800 |
14% |
LCDs, 19” or 21" or larger - many
widescreens. More common with advanced users. |
| Higher |
4% |
22" to ~30" - also many widescreens |
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Many LCD displays have a native resolution of 1280 x 1024
and if set to this for maximum sharpness, everything on the
screen will be smaller than you are used to. However, if
you use Display in Windows Control
Panel you can adjust many of the fonts, icons and other items
to be larger yet keep the sharpness. The result comes close
to being the best of both worlds. Other people are happy
to set the resolution to a non-native setting (e.g. 1024
x 768) and find the sharpness to be acceptable.
If you are planning to do quality photographic work on your
computer (e.g. you are planning to use
Photoshop)
then screen colour accuracy is very important.
CRT's can all be adjusted to give accurate colour but older/cheaper
LCD displays may have difficulty. Most new LCD displays have
good enough colour accuracy for most people and premium units
are available for people working in the graphics industry.
More on Colour calibration .
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Mouse
To avoid problems with the mouse, use an optical mouse
- they cost less than the aggravation caused by the old style!
If you get a "wireless" mouse (and/or keyboard),
remember that they'll need new or re-charged batteries every
few weeks (depending on the model and how you use it).
Keyboard
Almost any keyboard is OK. Higher priced versions have extra
keys and controls for commonly used items like sound level
etc.
Speakers
Most new computers come with a sub-woofer and 2 small speakers.
If you want 5.1 sound, you'll need 4 speakers plus the
sub-woofer.
Other items in tower
You should make sure your computer also has the following:
- NIC (Network Interface Card) - has an
Ethernet 10/100Mbps port for connection to a local Network
(using a Router)
or a high speed Modem. Most ISPs offering High-Speed service
(e.g. Sympatico, Cogeco and Eagle) have a strong preference
for a connection to the NIC and not a USB port.
- Modem - connects to the phone for Dial-up
Internet or to send/receive Faxes from the Computer.
- USB Ports - at least 6 and preferably
8 or more. Universal connection to peripherals such as
printers, scanners, cameras, card readers, mouse, extra
hard drive, etc. Recent computers should be USB 2.0 which
is much faster.
- If you plan to use an older printer (e.g. 6 years old
or more), you'll also need a parallel/printer port (connector).
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Router
If you want to connect two computers together (by cable) and/or you simply want
to have two computers share one high speed modem, then you'll need a Router.
Costing about $60, once installed they are usually very trouble free. If you
have Vista or Windows XP on both computers (or even 98SE), set up is handled
by Microsoft's Network Wizard. You can then designate files on each computer
that are accessible to the other. One very valuable benefit is that each computer
can be backed up to the other. The other major benefit is sharing a high speed
modem and high speed internet service. Operation is transparent and each user
seems to have a separate high speed Internet service. If you have an office,
you may also want to share a printer.
If running a cable between your two (or more) computers is difficult, then you
could use Wireless Networking for a few hundred dollars more.
Wireless Routers are not only more expensive, they are also slower, less
reliable and must be configured properly to avoid security issues. Since
they use ever changing standards, future additions may prove difficult as well.
Cable (Cat 5 with an Ethernet connector) works well and is well worth the "trouble".
See security page for a
recommended
Router. More on Routers from
Answer.com. |
High
Speed Modem
For operation over the phone line using DSL (Digital Subscriber Line - sometimes
called ADSL for Asymmetrical Digital Subscriber Line) or over cable. The modem
converts the ethernet or USB format to the cable or DSL format. When you first
connect it or turn it on, it has to establish a connection with the other end
that may take a minute or so. Once connected it will stay connected unless there
is a problem with the line. Most modems automatically re-connect after a break.
Once connected, it will then allow the computer (or router) to connect over the
Internet to your ISP - that is, to log in. |
USB
Hub
If you need more USB connections than you already have, you can get a USB hub.
Connect your computer to its input and your extra peripherals to the outputs
(usually 4 to 1). A USB Hub (and any USB port) actually supplies a small amount
of power but if your peripherals require any significant power, you'll need to
connect the Hub's power supply. |
Printers
Ink-Jets
The cheapest printers (or "All in Ones") are ink-jets. The only other
real option is a laser printer. Most ink-jets are cheaper to buy and produce
colour prints. However, their ink price per page (~6c to 9c) is about 2 to 3
times more, they are usually slower and their black and white text definition
is usually inferior to a laser printer. Colour Laser printers
at about $500 have a cost per page about 6 times their B&W cost per page
(~18c vs ~2.8c Cdn) (plus cost of paper) and their colour quality for photos
is not nearly as good as an ink-jet. However, they are fast and excellent for
general text and graphics. |
All-in-One
Printers
Most low end (and some mid-tier) printers are now "all-in-ones"
- scanner, printer, copier and fax. These days FAX
is being superceded by e-mail so is only used for
copies of written or old documents (lawyers still
love FAX's!). Remember, you'll still need a phone
line for it - especially if you want to receive FAX's
when you are not at home. Copying is a useful function
although a separate scanner will usually work OK
as a copier. So choose your "all-in-one"
with particular attention to the printer specs and
replacement cartridge cost. The other functions are
a bonus and should not be why you buy them.
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For office
work where you usually want black and white text, a laser
printer (right) is recommended ($100 Cdn up). For home printing
where you want occasional black/white or colour text, get
a cheap ink-jet. For more than occasional photo printing,
get a Photo Ink-jet printer. For
more on Photo-Printers, see
Printing
on our Photography & Images page.
Scanner
If you want to take a paper document and put it in your computer you'll need
a Scanner. Most scanners at almost any price will do basics well enough. If you
want to scan photos, then plan on paying more and buy from a Photo printer company
like Epson, Canon or HP. If you want to scan slides, and if
you want to make quality prints from them, then do some research - you'll probably
end up buying a Nikon or Minolta or other camera company scanner for $500 up.
Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS)
For best surge protection and to carry your computer for a few minutes through
a power outage while you safely shut down, you'll need a UPS. Be sure that its
capacity is enough for all the equipment you plan to plug into it. Battery life
is not critical - does it matter if you have 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes
to shut down? For more info, see APC -
the leader in the UPS field. Look for a high capacity (more than 500VA), voltage
regulation and a reputable brand.
Surge Protectors
Surges in power are one of three kinds:
- Low level - slight power variations
and/or small spikes. Although common, these will not
damage electronic equipment - a computer power supply
will absorb the variations with no damage.
- Mid-level -
lightning induced or extreme spikes due to major nearby
power problems. These are very rare and extremely rare
in home situations where a long power line effectively
smooths the spikes. In some factory situations or occasionally
in rural areas when lightning hits very close (e.g.
next door), there could be a problem with damage to
electronic equipment. In this case a surge protector
would help - but only the one time - if this happens,
you should replace the surge protector. Some surge
protectors have an indicator to show the protection
has been "used".
- Direct hit - Direct lightning hit
on the power line or telephone line to your house. In
this case, power surge protection won't help. The surge
will destroy the protector and many of your electrical
appliances. Fortunately, this situation is rare unless
you live on top of a lightning prone mountain.
In summary, surge protectors for home computers are usually
a waste of time and money. A UPS will protect against low
and mid-level as well as against power outages and makes
more sense. A good home owner's insurance policy
(plus a backup of
your data) is your best protection against a direct hit! |
Software
Your computer will also need software - look at our
software
page for help on this. If you plan to use your computer for Digital Photography,
look at our Photography
and Images page. |
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