Computers (and digital cameras) use the following file formats:

RAW - unprocessed and uncompressed - used only by digital camera users wanting to make their own processing choices and not leave it to the camera. Usually results in a bigger file and therefore is slower to transfer to your memory card and fewer RAW images will fit on a card. If you want to make up for errors in taking the photo (e.g. exposure errors), this is the way to go. The errors need not be yours - the camera is rarely perfect in converting to a jpeg file.

TIFF - uncompressed - very large files but best possible quality (same as RAW) - common for files from scanner and occasionally used in digital cameras. Not suitable for e-mailing. If you have RAW, basically a waste of time.

JPG or JPEG - compressed to a varying degree. At minimum compression, file size is about 25% of TIFF but few people can tell the difference - even when made into a large print. At medium compression, file size is about 10% of TIFF and ideal for e-mailing. At maximum compression, file is 2.5% of TIFF and suitable only for small images and not suitable for printing. As you you can see, as compression increases, quality decreases but file size also decreases. Make sure you take the photo in "high quality" if you plan to print the photo in a large size.

GIF - may be compressed but has a limited colour range. Not used for photos but extensively used in Web site images and clip art.

Note: These formats greatly affect the file size (KiloBytes or MegaBytes) but have no effect on picture size or number of pixels.

Pixels are individual pieces of data - each pixel has a specific colour and specific brightness. Each photo consists of many pixels with the exact number depending on the camera or scanner - the more there are, the more definition in the photo. Similar to "dots" (as in "dots per inch") on a printer.

Picture size is measured in inches or centimeters. To get a particular picture size, you specify the number of pixels per inch (e.g. a minimum of 200 pixels per inch) and depending on how many pixels in your photo, your print size is determined. So if you want a particular print size and your pixels are already decided, then you'll need to adjust the pixels per inch. To do this you usually will need some form of software. Windows XP includes such software (see next item) - other versions require that you use your favourite photo program.

There is another option - you can "re-sample" so that the number of pixels is changed; but you lose definition and you'd not want to do this for normal printing unless there was no other choice. "Re-sampling" using (e.g.) bi-cubic, will also require you to use your favourite photo program.

Viewing Photos on a computer

If you have Windows XP, simply double click on the image in a folder and Windows Picture and Fax Viewer will open the picture Full Screen or as large as it can be made on the screen. For looking at photos from Digital cameras, this is only true for jpg files - if you want to look at RAW images as a thumbnail or a slide show, you'll need the Windows XP (only) "upgrade" from Microsoft. Their RAW Image Thumbnailer and Viewer is a free “PowerToy” for Windows XP that provides the ability to view, organize, and print photos captured in RAW image formats from supported Canon and Nikon digital cameras. It also enhances the photo info available when you hover over a file name. Get your copy here. Otherwise you'll have to use either Photoshop's "Bridge" or proprietary Canon or Nikon software to view RAW files.

Both Windows Picture and Fax Viewer and RAW Image Thumbnailer and Viewer also provide simple slideshows, and printing.

If you don't have Windows XP, double clicking will open the picture in your "default program".

If you don't want to use your default program, you need to modify the file type list - more here.

If you would like to make a slide show with accompanying sound and effects, probably the easiest way is to use Microsoft's Photo Story 3. This is available to XP users only and can be downloaded from Microsoft for free. Another popular free program that produces a slide show is Irfanview (it also does other things - a highly recommended program - more below!)

Posting your Photos on the Internet

• Email - if you have Windows XP, go to the folder where your photos are stored, highlight (left click) the photo(s) you want to e-mail, then under File and Folder tasks on the left, select "e-mail the selected items" (or "email this file"), choose either "make all my pictures smaller" or "keep the original sizes", then you will be taken into your e-mail program where you can enter the addressee, change the subject and change the body of the e-mail to suit. If you choose "make all my pictures smaller", your photos will be reduced in size (fewer pixels - 640 x 480) and compressed so that the file size is about 100K and more suited for e-mailing. Use "keep the original sizes" if you want the recipient to be able to print a quality photo - but if the recipient does not have high speed Internet service they may not thank you! If you don't have XP, the process is longer unless you have an image management program that has a similar capability. Click here for more on this subject (compressing photos).
• Use a web sharing service - there are quite a few of these available - none are suitable for everyone so you will probably have to search (e.g. with Google) until you find one that suits your needs. However, if you want to share with the world (as compared to sharing with just select friends), then the three most popular sites for this are Flickr.com (now owned by Yahoo), Fotolog.com and Picasa. Picasa is getting to be the industry leader with Flickr a close second. You can also use Picasa (below) to help you organize files on your computer. But then many other programs such as PhotoShop Album (below) do this as well.
• Have your own web site. If you know how to do this already - then you won't need help such as provided by Cobourg Internet.

Image Software

There are hundreds of Programs available and they all have advantages and disadvantages. Below are some recommendations:

• Minimum - use the programs that came with your camera, scanner and/or new computer. These are generally adequate to familiarize yourself and you may never need more - especially if you get your prints printed by Wal-Mart, Blacks or similar.
• Picasa - automatically finds your photos and organizes them by date and folder. Some limited fixing capability. Available free from Google.
• Adobe PhotoShop Album Starter Edition 3.2 - excellent photo organizing program. Free at Adobe. Alternative to Picasa - also free from Google (above).
• Adobe PhotoShop Elements 6.0 - has complete editing and photo managing capability. Many professionals never need more than this. Current price at Adobe is $99.00 USD.
• Free Photo editing - limited but the price is right: IrfanView. Especially good for viewing jpgs etc. Has excellent batch renaming and resizing capability.
• Adobe PhotoShop CS3 - the standard and best there is in this field. The catch is price ($649 USD) and it might take forever to learn ALL about it. The new CS3 version is better than ever. Note that Adobe now bundles packages together so that you get Dreamweaver, Flash and more for much less than the individual costs. The hard part is deciding which package you want. Adobe.
• Editing Videos, burning to CD or DVD, converting formats - probably the best program is Nero 7 Ultra. ($80 USD)
• Noise reduction - if you want to use a high ISO number on your camera and/or it is prone to excessive "noise" (looks like grain), then you may want to try a Noise Reduction program like Noise Ninja. Price starts at $35 USD. However, noise reduction built into Photoshop CS3 is adequate in most cases.

Colour Calibration

If you are serious about optimizing then printing your own photos at home, you need to worry about Colour Calibration.

Why Calibrate
Typically, you will adjust photos using a program like Photoshop, then print them. To be useful, you'll want colours on your print to be the same as on your screen but "out of the box", this is usually not true. A further requirement - especially if you do commercial photography - is that the prints must have the same colours as the original subject. This latter means the monitor must be calibrated using hardware measuring systems. The product recommended is the Spyder3 Pro at $169US. Other systems go up from here! The best value on the market for hardware calibration is Pantone's Huey at $90US but results may not be much better than than achieved manually - see next item. Also, you need to have software for editing photos that reads ICC profiles - e.g. Adobe Photoshop. For a simple calibration method - not intended for commercial users - read on.

Basic Monitor Calibration - using your eye's judgement only
First, use the monitor's buttons to adjust basic brightness and/or contrast to set the white and black levels. White should be obviously white but not such that you get eye-strain. In some LCD monitors, it may be still too bright with brightness all the way down. But you can reduce it further by adjusting the 3 colours down but keeping the same ratios. Also check to see if your video card allows adjustments - to access this, go to Control panel, select Display then Settings then Advanced.

Second, adjust white using the monitor colour adjustments. First select a colour temperature (6500K) or colour profile (sRGB) so that you are in the ball-park. Then adjust so that white is white with no hint of any colour. To help with this, download this simple monitor calibration chart (to save it, choose save target (or link) as). The chart has black, white and grey areas as well as a couple of "less than black" areas so you can make sure your black is not too black (if possible). You may need to tweak brightness again but make sure you end up with a truly white white.

Third, adjust greys using gamma. If black is at one "end" and white is at the other, gamma controls "in between". The easiest way to adjust gamma is with the colour calibration utility that comes with Abobe PhotoShop Elements and Photoshop CS. It gets installed in your Control Panel when these programs are installed. Keep the monitor calibration chart on the screen while calibrating and be careful to end up with the grey having no trace of colour. If you want to test if you succeeded, download this gray scale and check that ALL the greys have no colour cast. If you succeed, you probably have a monitor much better than average as well as a lot of patience.

For a more detailed discussion on the whole subject, go to Dry Creek Photo's Monitor Calibration, epaperpress or Northlight Images.

Printer Colour Calibration
Second, you should calibrate your printer so it has (as near as possible) the same colour as the monitor. Use your printer driver adjustments for this. Every printer is different so details cannot be provided here. But explore your Printer Properties (and/or Preferences) and if it's a Photo Printer, you'll find that you can adjust the colour. Then print a sample colourful photo and compare it to the picture of it on your monitor. Make adjustments and print again. You'll use quite a bit of ink, but the results can be worth it.

If all the above is still not satisfactory, you may need to upgrade your monitor, software or printer.

Printing Photos

Almost any colour printer will print an acceptable photo if you use quality paper. The advantages of Photo printers (e.g. HP's PhotoSmart series, Epson Stylus Photo series or Canon's Photo Printer series) are:

• Smaller droplets so sharper resolution;
• More and better inks so more accurate colour;
• Better drivers so more adjustment of colour, contrast etc is possible;
• In some models, ink is also rated to resist fade longer (archive quality);
• In some models larger photos can be printed (13'' x 14")

As new models become available, speed, colour accuracy and archive quality all improve.